McLeod RXT1200 Clutch Set Sprung Hub 26 Spline, with Steel F/W, LS with 8-Bolt Crank

Q. What are MUST'S' when changing my clutch? A. 1. Change the pilot bearing. 2. Break the clutch in according to the instructions provided. 3. Ensure proper bellhousing alignment. 4. Resurface the flywheel. This is a critical step to guard against clutch chatter/shudder. We recommend a very coarse surface texture from a stone grinder. Something that if you ran your fingernail across the flywheel, the texture would catch your nail. 5. Inspect the entire clutch system, including hydraulics and linkage. Replacement of the Hydraulic slave with an OEM replacement is critical. Q. Do I have to use alignment pins in the flywheel? A. Yes. The pins help to ensure proper alignment of the pressure plate and add strength. Q. What is the proper break-in period? A. We would like to see 500-750 miles of stop-and-go city driving. Absolutely no drag racing or dyno tuning. Make sure to drive in stop-and-go city driving to actuate the clutch 1200 to 1500 times. You can drive the car 600 miles on the interstate and only shift the car 5 or 6 times and fail to break-in the clutch. Q. What causes clutch chatter? A. 1. Oil or grease on the clutch facings. 2. Worn or damaged clutch linkage, leaf springs, bushings, mounts, u-joints, CV joints, engine mounts, transmission mounts. 3. A flywheel that has not been resurfaced properly, has hot spots, has excessive run-out and or incorrect flywheel step. 4. Pressure plate or disc that is bent. 5. Defective pressure plate and or disc. 6. An engine that is not tuned properly. 7. A disc that either lacks enough marcel or has no marcel at all.